Daniel Martin. Invenite only. Everest

Professor Daniel Martin OBE extends his arms in an L-shape to frame the dimensions of Mount Everest鈥檚 summit. 鈥淚t鈥檚 not too dissimilar to this in terms of size,鈥 he says, gesturing to our surroundings at the top of Fox Tor in Dartmoor. 鈥淚t鈥檚 just an extraordinary, spiritual place, covered in prayer flags. And you get this astonishing view of the Himalayas, with Tibet on one side and Nepal on the other.鈥 

Today, under heavy skies that constantly threaten a wintry soaking, the view is, understandably less dramatic, but nevertheless full of its own symbolic landmarks. Surrounding us are the tors and trails that Dan鈥檚 stepfather walked as a Devon lad, nurturing a love of the outdoors that he would later imbue in his son. And to the south-west, bathed in the weak orange light from the setting sun, you can see Plymouth, home to the university that Dan joined in the spring of 2020 as its first Professor of Perioperative and Intensive Care Medicine.

鈥淲alking and climbing has always been a big part of my life,鈥 he says, balancing upon one of the many weathered granite blocks that angle up from the top of the tor. 鈥淎nd I鈥檝e had the good fortune to be able to combine the two in a tangible way to undertake research that is impacting upon intensive care medicine.鈥 

From Everest to Plymouth鈥t鈥檚 not your usual career journey. But then as we are to discover, Dan Martin is anything but your average academic.

Captain Robert Falcon Scott; George Hedley Stainforth; John Paul Stapp; Yuri Gagarin and Dan Martin. Five men who, according to the BBC in 2012, were the five greatest daredevils to have advanced science. Like Scott and Gagarin, Dan鈥檚 feat required elevation and cold temperatures. Unlike record-breaking speed merchants Stainforth and Stapp, it was anything but fast. 

鈥淚 hold the 鈥榬ecord鈥 for the lowest level of oxygen ever recorded in the blood of a living human,鈥 he says with a matter-of-factness befitting an academic tome (in this case The New England Journal of Medicine, in which the full scientific story was chronicled). 鈥淢y blood-oxygen level was 80% lower than where it would normally be, and less than half of that which would trigger an urgent admission to intensive care.鈥

The backdrop to this record was the 2007 expedition 鈥 the first of Dan鈥檚 two research trips to the world鈥檚 tallest mountain, in partnership with a team of doctors, nurses and scientists who specialise in both climbing and physiology. The 250-strong, three-month mission sought to simulate the extreme conditions that intensive care patients endure and study the effects of oxygen deprivation on the body 鈥 known as hypoxia.

鈥淲hen people go into intensive care, they are commonly suffering with low levels of oxygen in their blood,鈥 he says. 鈥淪ome can tolerate it, some can鈥檛, but our understanding of it is very poor and there is still a great deal of uncertainty as to what oxygen levels you should set a patient when they are on a ventilator.鈥 

Typically, Dan says, hospitals will try to elevate a patient鈥檚 oxygen levels by mechanically blowing it into their lungs with a ventilator. One of the aims of the Xtreme Everest project, which is based at the , has been to question whether that is always the best approach. 

鈥淥ur method from the outset has been 鈥榣et鈥檚 look at ourselves rather than animal models鈥 and altitude seemed to be a place where you could really push people to the edge of their physiology,鈥 Dan says. 鈥淲hile it is not entirely the same as being on a hospital bed with multiple organ failure, people at altitude have very low oxygen levels, particularly if you push them with a bit of exercise and their cognition is altered due to the stressful environment.

鈥淎nd we have found remarkable similarities in human cells in those two environments. We have learned things on the mountain which we have subsequently seen in patients.鈥

Getty Everest
Getty everest prayer flags

The ascent to the summit on that record-breaking trip began on the night of 22 May, at the tail-end of the climbing season. By first light at around 4.30am they found themselves on the precarious knife-edge of the south east ridge of Everest in windy conditions 鈥 but mercifully, with the mountain to themselves. No queues, no waiting to climb over the Hilary Step, and no one to witness them dropping their trousers! 

For, once they reached the summit two hours later, the 鈥榬eal work鈥 was due to begin 鈥 taking blood from one another in this oxygen deprived environment. But the windy conditions meant they could not do the tests at the summit, so after a period of reflection among the prayer flags, they descended 400 metres to a more sheltered ridge. 

鈥淲e put up a tent, removed our oxygen tanks for half an hour, and then did the tests,鈥 Dan recalls. 鈥淲e had to take the blood from the femoral artery and this presented us with something of a logistical challenge. On an earlier climb of Cho Oyu (8,188m), we had experimented with these special suits that had flaps over the groin. But we couldn鈥檛 locate the anatomy very well and we ended up furtling around in these little holes saying 鈥淚 can鈥檛 see your groin!鈥 We tried to take blood from the radial artery in the wrist but that proved too difficult due to the temperature. So on Everest, we simply had to resort to removing our trousers!鈥

Later, the team discovered that it was not only the trousers that had dropped to the floor. A healthy level of blood oxygen in an adult is typically 12鈥14 kilopascals. When the samples were analysed, they found that Dan鈥檚 measured just 2.55. 

鈥淚t is a very strange thing, having this record,鈥 he says with a wry smile. 鈥淚n meetings and conferences, when I tell them how low my oxygen levels were, there is this audible gasp. But at the time, I had been able to function relatively normally, take blood samples from my colleagues, talk on the radio and climb. But we just don鈥檛 see those levels of oxygen in patients in hospitals 鈥 they don鈥檛 exist. 

鈥淥f course, we'd had the time to acclimatise, and this was part of our whole drive to do this research. We weren鈥檛 trying to look how low I could get my oxygen; it was a demonstration that given time, some individuals can acclimatise to that very low level. And potentially that has implications for how we manage patients on ventilators.鈥

Unlike that landmark occasion on Everest, there is barely a breath of wind on Fox Tor today. Walkers are out in abundance, with several stopping out of curiosity as photographer Lloyd Russell goes about his craft. A head tilt to the horizon here, a gaze out across the landscape there; Dan鈥檚 easy compliance is of a man familiar with the lens of a camera. 

His high-altitude exploits have resulted in regular appearances in radio and television documentaries, such as The Wonderful World of Blood, when he put Dr Michael Mosley in a hypoxic chamber at ISEH and subjected him to oxygen deprivation. He was even a consultant on the BBC documentary How to Grow a Planet when Plymouth鈥檚 Professor Iain Stewart was locked inside an airtight Perspex box with half the oxygen removed for 48 hours with only oxygenating plants for company. 

When you factor in his considerable body of research published in high-impact journals, and the extensive number of prestigious honorary positions he holds, there is little argument that Dan Martin is a hugely significant 鈥榮igning鈥 for both the University and Derriford. How, we ask, did Plymouth convince him to leave the capital, where he was a Professor in the Division of Surgery and Interventional Science at University College London, and an Honorary Consultant in Perioperative and Critical Care Medicine at the Royal Free Hospital? 

鈥淲ell, it probably began five years ago when I first met Professor Rob Sneyd,鈥 he says, referring to the University鈥檚 inaugural Dean of the Peninsula Schools of Medicine and Dentistry. 鈥淩ob personally knew Mike Grocott, who led the Xtreme Everest expedition in 2007, and so he was familiar with our work. But it became more serious when I came down for Rob鈥檚 retirement event and he started to say 鈥榶ou should come and work here鈥 鈥 it鈥檚 the only obvious solution to your life! That鈥檚 where the idea was seeded.鈥 

With the arrival of Professor Sube Bannerjee as the new Dean when Rob retired in 2018, 鈥渢he dream started to become a very real scenario鈥, and after some constructive discussions, the position of Professor of Perioperative and Intensive Care Medicine was created. In May 2020, after more than a decade at UCL, and in the midst of lockdown, Dan officially became a member of the Faculty of Health. 

鈥淚t was quite surreal 鈥 I couldn鈥檛 step foot in my office due to the lockdown,鈥 he says. 鈥淚ndeed, it was months later that I finally made it on to campus; it was certainly not the usual way to start a new chapter in your career.鈥

One of Dan鈥檚 first actions upon being made a professor was to call his former science teacher who had played a truly formative role in his academic direction. By his own admission, Dan was not a particularly well-behaved pupil at the private school he attended in leafy Hampshire, courtesy of the assisted place scheme that enabled talented children from low income families to benefit from a more exclusive education. Wrestling with a dyslexia that robbed him of any feel for languages, and an underlying unease at being surrounded by wealthy pupils, it was through science that he finally found some of clarity in learning.

鈥淪cience was logical and explained the world around me, about how living things worked,鈥 he says. 鈥淎nd there was this particularly inspiring teacher, Tim Dilks, who spent a lot of time with me, nurturing my interest in science and was one of the people who suggested I go to university. The expectation from my family was that I should follow the path of those generations before me and join the Navy. The whole concept of university was somewhat alien.

鈥淏ut I applied for a degree in medicine because I was drawn to the opportunity to learn more about the human body. I can鈥檛 say I was one of those people who, at the age of four, wanted to be a doctor and save lives. It was the understanding rather than the healing that drew me.鈥 

Eschewing the safe choice of neighbouring Southampton, Dan sought a degree of independence by enrolling at Leicester on a six-year course that included an Intercalated Bachelor of Science. He enjoyed its modern approach to medicine, and it was here that he met the second major influence upon his career. 

鈥淚t鈥檚 where I first discovered research, thanks to a project I did with a newly-appointed cardiologist,鈥 he recalls. 鈥淚t was his first consultant job and I was his first research student. He is now Professor Sir Niliesh Samani, Medical Director of the British Heart Foundation. I still see him from time-to-time. Whenever I walk into the room he pats me on the back in a very fatherly way. It was a great year of research culminating in the publication of several scientific papers.鈥 

After graduating, Dan worked at various East Midlands hospitals without settling upon a particular training programme. He briefly focused upon cardiology, before a move to the London Chest Hospital introduced him to the local anaesthetist community. As a scientist fascinated by physiology, the 鈥榚xquisite nature鈥 of putting a patient to sleep and controlling that process appealed greatly to him. He applied for a training position, and with a PhD at UCL completed in the interim, Dan finally qualified in 2011.

It was during those years of training that Dan also met his fellow co-founders of Xtreme Everest, who had first begun to study high-altitude physiology around the turn of the millennium. An avid climber from an early age, particularly on trips to Wales with his stepfather, Dan needed no second invitation to join the group on a climb in the Lake District. It was there that they told him of their ideas about conducting research in the Himalayas.

鈥淔rom there, it escalated rapidly with exponential craziness,鈥 says Dan. 鈥淢ike Grocott was an inspirational, visionary person who could picture hundreds of people walking up and down base camp, and he made it all happen. We attempted to climb Baruntse in 2003, and then after our first 8,000-metre expedition to Cho Oyu in 2006, we moved on to Everest.鈥 

Daniel Martin Everest invenite

For the second Everest project in 2013, Dan was the overall lead, an experience that he rates as perhaps the proudest of his career. While the team never set out to reach the summit, it did set its research sights much higher. 

鈥淥ne of the questions we were repeatedly asked after 2007 was 鈥榳hat level of oxygen did you see when you looked at the Sherpas?鈥欌 Dan says. 鈥淪o it was obvious we had to go back and do similar experiments comparing them with ourselves. It was ethically and logistically complex, but we found some exciting differences between the two populations.鈥 

The expedition used 275 yaks to transport 15 tonnes of equipment, one tonne of dry ice and 160 litres of liquid nitrogen, with 65 Sherpas and 80 members of the public involved. It provided so much data that the team is still publishing their findings to this day. But by that same token, Dan admits, a watershed moment for the group is drawing near. 

鈥淭here are five of us who run the show, which we have now formed into a charity. We try to meet once a year, and this summer we acknowledged that we have some decisions to make as to whether we shut up shop or have some form of handing over to the next generation. I don鈥檛 think for a moment that this will be our last trip to high altitude 鈥 and we are always formulating questions to answer 鈥 but it might be time to take a back seat and let the younger investigators lead.鈥 

That theme of securing a legacy for the future is one, paradoxically, that is occupying Dan鈥檚 thoughts during the infancy of his role at Plymouth. His remit is not simply to maintain his prodigious level of work (though he is due to begin the largest ever study of intensive care units in the country with ICNARC (Intensive Care National Audit and Research Centre), and potentially 16,500 patients). His primary concern, instead, is succession planning, and establishing a research base in the city that will become home to a multidisciplinary community of medics, allied health professionals, trainees and science students, all working around common themes in perioperative and intensive care medicine to tackle the big problems of the day.

鈥淎t big research-intensive universities you have this scenario of a successful professor retiring, and the lab is cleared and the next group moves in,鈥 he says. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 a very short-sighted way of running things. I鈥檓 here to create a foundation so that Plymouth will be a centre of excellence long after I am gone. It already has the building blocks it requires 鈥 the people I鈥檝e met are extraordinary 鈥 but it needs a leader and an enabler in my field, and that鈥檚 what I will try to be.鈥 

That foundational process has already begun, with Dan鈥檚 fianc茅e, Dr Helen McKenna, also joining the University from UCL on an NIHR-funded Academic Clinical Fellow post. 

鈥淲e essentially do the same thing鈥ell almost,鈥 Dan clarifies with a smile. 鈥淗elen is following a very similar track, but where I have drifted into these big clinical trials, that is absolutely not her thing. Her real passion is in the laboratory, the biological, molecular component of our work. 

鈥淪o my coming to Plymouth adds an additional, complementary scientist 鈥 one who will ultimately bring far more to the table than I do!鈥

The vanishing point on the horizon to the west is suddenly smeared across the middle distance by an ominous column of grey advancing upon us. It鈥檚 a sign from the weather gods that we鈥檙e pushing our luck with the moor.

Not that Dan appears to be remotely concerned. When you鈥檝e grown up sailing to France with your stepfather without even checking the forecast (and equipped with just a handful of Francs), and when you鈥檝e endured temperatures of minus 30 on the Alaskan mountain of Denali (鈥淭he only time in my life where I was too cold to sleep鈥), you have a rather different perspective on the elements. 

鈥淚t鈥檚 a very natural thing to climb upwards 鈥 but it is unnatural to climb down,鈥 Dan says as he carefully negotiates a section of potentially ankle spraining granite on our descent/retreat towards the sanctuary of the car park. 鈥淎nd that鈥檚 where so many climbers have historically run into trouble.鈥 

Precisely how high Professor Dan Martin can climb on his quest to improve our understanding of intensive care medicine is yet to be written. What鈥檚 clear is that he鈥檚 not doing it alone.